Cara's Homework

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Horse Care

Grooming: Horses groomed regularly have healthier and more attractive coats. Many horse management handbooks recommend grooming a horse daily, though for the average modern horse owner, this is not always possible. However, a horse should always be groomed before being ridden to avoid chafing and rubbing of dirt and other material, which can cause sores on the animal and also grind dirt into horse tack. Grooming also allows the horse handler to check for injuries and is a good way to gain the trust of the animal. [6]
Proper basic grooming of a horse is a multi-step process involving several simple tools:
Curry: Usually a round tool with short teeth made of plastic or stiff rubber, used to loosen dirt, hair, and other detritus, plus stimulate the skin to produce natural oils.
Dandy brush: A stiff-bristled, "dandy" brush is used to remove the dirt, hair and other material stirred up by the curry. The best quality dandy brushes are made of stiff natural bristles such as rice stems, plastic-bristled dandy brushes are more common.
Body brush: A soft-bristled "body" brush removes finer particles and dust. Some natural body brushes are made of boar bristles, like human hairbrushes, others are made of soft synthetic fibers.
Grooming rag or towel: A terrycloth towel or other type of cloth. Sometimes called a "stable rubber."
Mane brush or comb: Horses with short, pulled manes have their manes combed with a wide-toothed plastic or metal comb. Horse tails and long manes many be finger-combed or are brushed with either a dandy brush, body brush, or a suitable human hairbrush.
Hoof pick: All four feet of the horse need to be cleaned out.
In special weather conditions, a metal shedding blade with short, dull teeth is used to remove loose winter hair. Metal grooming tools used on sheep and show cattle may also be too harsh to use on a horse.
In the summer, fly spray is often applied to the horse after grooming.
Sweat or Water Scraper: A metal or plastic tool to remove excess liquid from a horse's coat.
Sometimes, though not always, horses are clipped with scissors or, preferably, electric clippers. The most common areas are a short "bridle path" just behind the ears, where a few inches of mane is removed to help the bridle lay more neatly; and the fetlocks, where extra hair can collect undesired amounts of mud and dirt. For horse show and exhibition purposes, additional clipping may be done.
Beyond the basic equipment, there are literally thousands of grooming tools on the market, from multiple designs on the basic brushes, available in many colors, to specialized tools for braiding manes, polishing hooves and clipping loose hair. There are also grooming products for horses ranging from moisturizing hair dressings to glitter gel and hoof polish.
Horses can be bathed by being wet down with a garden hose, but they do not require bathing and many horses live their entire lives without a bath. Either horse or human shampoo may be safely used on a horse, if thoroughly rinsed out, and cream rinses or hair conditioners, similar to those used by humans, are often used on show horses. Too-frequent shampooing can strip the hair coat of natural oils and cause it to dry out. A well-groomed, clean horse can be kept clean by wearing a horse blanket or horse sheet.
A horse show class that considers quality of grooming for as much as 40% of the total score is called showmanship.

Bandaging: The legs of a horse require routine observation for lacerations or swelling. Everyday care involves brushing the legs with a brush to remove dirt and mud. A currycomb is generally not used below the knees. It is common even for pleasure horses to have excess hair trimmed from the fetlock to prevent excess accumulation of mud and moisture. When working, many riders wrap the horse's legs with protective boots or bandages to prevent injury. After a ride, it is common for a rider or groom to hose off the legs of a horse to remove dirt and to ease any minor inflammation to the tendons and ligaments. Liniment may also be applied as a preventative measure to minimize stiffness and ease any minor strain. If the horse has been overworked, injured, or is to be hauled, a standing bandage or shipping boot may be placed on the horse's legs for protection, to hold a wound dressing, or to provide support.
Wrapping legs requires care and skill. A too loose bandage will fall off, potentially tangling in the horse's feet and causing panic or injury. A too tight bandage can itself cause injury to tendons and ligaments and even circulation problems. Commercial boots for riding or shipping are usually easy to apply if purchased in the correct size, as they attach with a hook and loop fastening, or, less often, with adjustable buckles. Leg bandages require more attention. A bandage is usually applied over a protective padding of roll cotton or a premade quilted pad. The bandage is started on the outside of the leg, in the middle of the cannon bone, then wrapped down to either the fetlock or the hoof, depending on the purpose for which it is used, then back up to just under the knee, then back to the center of the cannon just above the starting point, ending on the outside of the leg. Most of the time, a left leg is wrapped in a counter-clockwise direction, and a right leg wrapped in a clockwise direction, starting on the outside, moving front to back. Legs may be bandaged with either disposable stretchable wrap that sticks to itself, or with washable fleece or cotton wraps that are reusable and fasten at the ends with a hook and loop closure. Bandages may also be taped with medical tape to help them stay on.

Clothing: A rug (UK), blanket (Equine and other livestock, US), or coat (canine and other companion animals, US) is a covering or garment made by humans to protect their pets from the elements, as in a horse rug or dog coat.
Rugs are also used to protect the pelage of show animals, particularly if the wool or fleece is to be judged, as in alpaca fleece sent to an agricultural show, where it would be desirable to have the wool free from dirt and debris.
Horse rugs are used for many reasons. They can be waterproof, to keep the horse dry in wet weather and allowing it to be turned out, used as a means of providing extra warmth, especially to clipped horses, to keep flies off the animal in summer, or to keep a horse clean.
A surcingle is a strap made of leather or leather-like synthetic materials such as nylon or neoprene, sometimes with elastic, that fastens around a horse's girth area. A surcingle may be used for ground training, some types of in-hand exhibition, and over a saddle or horse pack to stabilize the load. It also is a primary component of a horse harness.
A basic surcingle is unpadded, attaches around the horse by means of buckles or rings, and has no other hardware. A training surcingle, sometimes called a "roller," has many extra rings attached, running from the ribcage up to the withers area. It usually has padding to relieve pressure on the spine. A variation of this design is used for equestrian vaulting.
Many trainers first teach a young horse to accept girth pressure by strapping on a surcingle before a saddle and girth. The surcingle is commonly used for longeing, often as a base from which to attach training equipment such as side reins, overcheck, lauffer reins (sliding side reins), or chambons. A surcingle is also important in long lining or ground driving, as it provides rings for the long reins to run through. Double longeing, using two longe lines, requires the use of a surcingle to thread the longe lines through the rings.
Compared to a saddle, a surcingle allows more precise adjustment of side reins due to the placement of additional rings. While a saddle only provides one height to attach the rings (the girth buckles), and can be uneven or at the wrong position, a training surcingle places rings at more appropriate locations for ground work. Many surcingle designs allow the side reins to be attached at several different heights along the sides of the horse.
When used without a saddle, a surcingle sits just behind the withers. When used with a saddle, the surcingle runs over the seat near the pommel. A surcingle is also used over the top of certain types of pack saddle and pack to keep the pack bags and swag in place. A surcingle is usually used with a pad, and fit to the horse's back as carefully as a saddle would be. It is tightened enough to prevent slipping, more when used with a saddle and rider, less when used for ground training.

Saddlery Tack is a term used to describe any of the various equipment and accessories worn by horses in the course of their use as domesticated animals. Saddles, stirrups, bridles, halters, reins, bits, harnesses, martingales, and breastplates are all forms of horse tack. Equipping a horse is often referred to as tacking up.

Saddles are seats for the rider, fastened to the horse's back by means of a girth (English-style riding), known as a cinch in the Western US, a wide strap that goes around the horse at a point about four inches behind the forelegs. Some western saddles will also have a second strap known as a flank or back cinch that fastens at the rear of the saddle and goes around the widest part of the horse's belly.
It is important that the saddle be comfortable for both the rider and the horse as an improperly fitting saddle may create pressure points on the horse's back muscle (Latissimus dorsi) and cause the horse pain and can lead to the horse, rider, or both getting injured.
There are many types of saddle, each specially designed for its given task. Saddles are usually divided into two major categories: "English saddles" and "Western saddles" according to the riding discipline they are used in. Other types of saddles, such as racing saddles, Australian saddles, sidesaddles and endurance saddles do not necessarily fit neatly in either category.
Stirrups are supports for the rider's feet that hang down on either side of the saddle. They provide greater stability for the rider but can have safety concerns due to the potential for a rider's feet to get stuck in them. If a rider is thrown from a horse but has a foot caught in the stirrup, they could be dragged if the horse runs away. To minimize this risk, a number of safety precautions are taken. First, most riders wear riding boots with a heel and a smooth sole. Next, some saddles, particularly English saddles, have safety bars that allow a stirrup leather to fall off the saddle if pulled backwards by a falling rider. Other precautions are done with stirrup design itself. Western saddles have wide stirrup treads that make it more difficult for the foot to become trapped. A number of saddle styles incorporate a tapedero, which is covering over the front of the stirrup that keeps the foot from sliding all the way through the stirrup. The English stirrup (or "iron") has several design variations which are either shaped to allow the rider's foot to slip out easily or are closed with a very heavy rubber band.[2] The invention of stirrups was of great historic significance in mounted combat, giving the rider secure foot support while on horseback.

A halter (US) or headcollar (BI) (occasionally headstall) consists of a noseband and headstall that buckles around the horse's head and allows the horse to be led or tied. The lead rope is separate, and it may be short (from six to ten feet, two to three meters) for everyday leading and tying, or much longer (up to 25 feet (7.6 m), eight meters) for tasks such as for leading packhorses or for picketing a horse out to graze. Some horses, particularly stallions, may have a chain attached to the lead rope and placed over the nose or under the jaw to increase the control provided by a halter while being led. Most of the time, horses are not ridden with a halter, as it offers insufficient precision and control. Halters have no bit.[3]
In Australian and British English, a halter is a rope with a spliced running loop around the nose and another over the poll, used mainly for unbroken horses or for cattle. The lead rope cannot be removed from the halter. A show halter is made from rolled leather and the lead attaches to form the chinpiece of the noseband. These halters are not suitable for paddock usage or in loose stalls. An underhalter is a lightweight halter or headcollar which is made with only one small buckle, and can be worn under a bridle for tethering a horse without untacking.

Bridles usually have a bit attached to reins and are used for riding and driving horses.
English Bridles have a cavesson style noseband and are seen in English riding. Their reins are buckled to one another, and they have little adornment or flashy hardware.
Western Bridles used in Western riding usually have no noseband, are made of thin bridle leather. They may have long, separated "Split" reins or shorter closed reins, which sometimes include an attached Romal. Western bridles are often adorned with silver or other decorative features.
Double bridles are a type of English bridle that use two bits in the mouth at once, a snaffle and a curb. The two bits allow the rider to have very precise control of the horse. As a rule, only very advanced horses and riders use double bridles. Double bridles are usually seen in the top levels of dressage, but also are seen in certain types of show hack and Saddle seat competition.
A hackamore is a headgear that utilizes a heavy noseband of some sort, rather than a bit, most often used to train young horses or to go easy on an older horse's mouth. Hackamores are more often seen in western riding.[5] Some related styles of headgear that control a horse with a noseband rather than a bit are known as bitless bridles.

The word "hackamore" is derived from the Spanish word jaquima. Hackamores are seen in western riding disciplines, as well as in endurance riding and English riding disciplines such as show jumping and the stadium phase of eventing. While the classic bosal-style hackamore is usually used to start young horses, other designs, such as various bitless bridles and the mechanical hackamore are often seen on mature horses with dental issues that make bit use painful, horses with certain training problems, and on horses with mouth or tongue injuries. Some riders also like to use them in the winter to avoid putting a frozen metal bit into a horse's mouth.[6]
Like bitted bridles, noseband-based designs can be gentle or harsh, depending on the hands of the rider. It is a myth that a bit is cruel and a hackamore is gentler. The horse's face is very soft and sensitive with many nerve endings. Misuse of a hackamore can cause swelling on the nose, scraping on the nose and jawbone, and extreme misuse may cause damage to the bones and cartilage of the horse's head.
Reins consist of leather straps or rope attached to the outer ends of a bit and extend to the rider's or driver's hands. Reins are the means by which a horse rider or driver communicates directional commands to the horse's head. Pulling on the reins can be used to steer or stop the horse. The sides of a horse's mouth are sensitive, so pulling on the reins pulls the bit, which then pulls the horse's head from side to side, which is how the horse is controlled.
On some types of harnesses there might be supporting rings to carry the reins over the horse's back. When pairs of horses are used in drawing a wagon or coach it is usual for the outer side of each pair to be connected to reins and the inside of the bits connected by a short bridging strap or rope. The driver carries "four-in-hand" or "six-in-hand" being the number of reins connecting to the pairs of horses.
A rein may be attached to a halter to lead or guide the horse in a circle for training purposes or to lead a packhorse, but a simple lead rope is more often used for these purposes. A longe line is sometimes called a "longe rein," but it is actually a flat line about 30 feet (9.1 m) long, usually made of nylon or cotton web, about one inch wide, thus longer and wider than even a driving rein.

Horses should never be tied by the reins. Not only do they break easily, but, being attached to a bit in the horse's sensitive mouth, a great deal of pain can be inflicted if a bridled horse sets back against being tied
A bit is a device placed in a horse's mouth, kept on a horse's head by means of a headstall. There are many types, each useful for specific types of riding and training.

The mouthpiece of the bit does not rest on the teeth of the horse, but rather rests on the gums or "bars" of the horse's mouth in an interdental space behind the front incisors and in front of the back molars. It is important that the style of bit is appropriate to the horse's needs and is fitted properly for it to function properly and be as comfortable as possible for the horse.

The basic "classic" styles of bits are:
• Curb bit
• Snaffle bit
• Pelham bit
• Weymouth or Double Bridle
While there are literally hundreds of types of bit mouthpieces, bit rings and bit shanks, essentially there are really only two broad categories: direct pressure bits, broadly termed snaffle bits; and leverage bits, usually termed curbs.
Bits that act with direct pressure on the tongue and lips of the bit are in the general category of snaffle bits. Snaffle bits commonly have a single jointed mouthpiece and act with a nutcracker effect on the bars, tongue and occasionally roof of the mouth. However, regardless of mouthpiece, any bit that operates only on direct pressure is a "snaffle" bit.[12]
Leverage bits have shanks coming off the mouthpiece to create leverage that applies pressure to the poll, chin groove and mouth of the horse are in the category of curb bits. Any bit with shanks that works off of leverage is a "curb" bit, regardless of whether the mouthpiece is solid or jointed.
Some combination or hybrid bits combine direct pressure and leverage, such as the Kimblewick or Kimberwicke, which adds slight leverage to a two-rein design that resembles a snaffle;[13] and the four rein designs such as the single mouthpiece Pelham bit and the double bridle, which places a curb and a snaffle bit simultaneously in the horse's mouth.[14]
In the wrong hands even the mildest bit can hurt the horse. Conversely, a very severe bit, in the right hands, can transmit subtle commands that cause no pain to the horse. Bit commands should be given with only the quietest movements of the hands, and much steering and stopping should be done with the legs and seat.
Breastplates, breastcollars or breastgirths attach to the front of the saddle, cross the horse's chest, and usually have a strap that runs between the horse's front legs and attaches to the girth. They keep the saddle from sliding back or sideways. They are usually seen in demanding, fast-paced sports. They are crucial pieces of safety equipment for English riding activities requiring jumping, such as eventing, show jumping, polo, and fox hunting. They are also seen in Western riding events, particularly in rodeo, reining and cutting, where it is particularly important to prevent a saddle from shifting. They may also be worn in other horse show classes for decorative purposes.
A martingale is a piece of equipment that keeps a horse from raising its head too high. Various styles can be used as a control measure, to prevent the horse from avoiding rider commands by raising its head out of position; or as a safety measure to keep the horse from tossing its head high or hard enough to smack its rider in the face.
They are allowed in many types of competition, especially those where speed or jumping may be required, but are not allowed in most "flat" classes at horse shows, though an exception is made in a few classes limited exclusively to young or "green" horses who may not yet be fully trained.
Martingales are usually attached to the horse one of two ways. They are either attached to the center chest ring of a breastplate or, if no breastplate is worn, they are attached by two straps, one that goes around the horse's neck, and the other that attaches to the girth, with the martingale itself beginning at the point in the center of the chest where the neck and girth straps intersect.

Martingale types include:
Running martingale: This design adds leverage to a bit and features a split fork beginning at the chest with a ring on each side of the fork through which the reins pass, enabling the rider to more easily keep the horse under control, but also allowing the horse freedom of movement when needed. Fitted correctly, the running martingale only controls how high the horse carries its head when the rider tightens the reins. The standard adjustment of a running martingale is to set the rings at a height where they do not engage and add leverage to the reins when the horse carries its head at the proper height. Sometimes a running martingale may be adjusted at a greater or lesser length depending on the needs of the horse and rider.[16]
Standing martingale: A design with one strap that runs from the girth or the chest and attaches to the noseband of the bridle. The standing martingale acts on the horse's nose and creates an absolute limit to how high a horse can raise its head. The term used in western riding for this piece of equipment is the tie down. Standard adjustment of a standing martingale allows enough slack to bring the strap to the horse's throatlatch when the animal has its head in a relaxed, natural position. However, it is sometimes adjusted shorter. Unlike the running martingale, it limits the freedom of the horse's head, no matter how long or short the reins may be. While standing martingales are common in show hunter and equitation classes, the limits placed on the horse's movement are dangerous for cross-country riding or show jumping. Therefore, in these disciplines, a running martingale is necessary for safety reasons, if a martingale is used at all.[16]
German martingale or Market Harborough: This design consists of a split fork that comes up from the chest, runs through the rings of the bit and attaches to the reins of the bridle between the bit and the rider's hand. It acts in a manner similar to a running martingale, but with greater leverage. It is not usually considered show legal and is used primarily as a training aid.
Irish martingale: Unlike the previous designs, this very simple "martingale" does not control the height of the horse's head, but merely keeps the reins from going over the horse's head in the result of a fall. It consists of a piece of leather with a ring on each end through which each rein runs.

There are other training devices that fall loosely in the martingale category, in that they use straps attached to the reins or bit which limit the movement of the horse's head or add leverage to the rider's hands in order to control the horse's head. Common devices of this nature include the overcheck, the chambon, grazing reins, draw reins and the "bitting harness" or "bitting rig". However, most of this equipment is used for training purposes and is not legal in any competition. In some disciplines, use of leverage devices, even in training, is controversial.

Avoid Murphy's Law
I'm sure you are aware of Murphy's Law. You know, the one that states "Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong". Well, with horses never a truer word was spoken. You'll be protecting your safety and your horse's comfort by taking a few extra minutes and performing simple safety checks before each ride.

Start with your saddle
Before you put your saddle on your horse's back, check that the tree is in good shape. The way I do this is to put the saddle between my knees and, holding it on either side, close to the pommel at the very front of the saddle, squeeze the sides together firmly. There shouldn't be any movement. If there is, or if you hear a grinding, it indicates a weakness in the tree, or framework, of the saddle, that can seriously damage your horse's back if you continue to ride on it. No saddle with a broken tree should ever be used on a horse. If the tree passes muster, continue your check by looking at the bars of the saddle, where your stirrups attach. Make sure the bar on each side is secure and that no rivets are working loose. Get physical with it, wiggle it and pull firmly on the stirrup leathers. Next look under the flaps and check for weak stitching on the girth billets (those straps that your girth attaches to).This is probably one of the most important checks you can make as far as your own safety goes! Check the billets for dryness and wear -- do this by flexing and twisting the straps. If you notice cracks in the leather, it would be wise to replace that piece before it tears all the way through. Check the girth itself and the elastic ends too, if your girth has them. Check the pieces that hold the buckles in place for wear and also the buckles themselves, to make sure they are not bent or rusting through. If you notice any problems you should replace the girth before it fails. We have all seen those comedy films where the rider puts his foot in the stirrup to mount and both he and the saddle end up on the ground. However, it is far from a joke if something breaks as you are galloping full tilt toward an open ditch!
6. Check your stirrup leathers for dryness and wear, especially at the points where the leather folds. Use the same flexing and twisting technique that you used to check the billets. Replace any stirrup leathers that are worn in these areas or that show cracks in the leather.
7. Also be sure and check the stitching on the stirrup leathers and make sure that any stitching that is starting to unravel or wear is repaired or the stirrup leathers replaced.
On to the Bridle
1. Check all the leather in the bridle, using the same flexing and twisting technique you used on the billets and stirrup leathers. Give extra attention to areas of strain, such as where the rein wraps around the bit. Any cracking or separation in that area is a danger signal telling you it's time to invest in a new set of reins.
2. Check all the stitching, especially on the reins. If you have the tools (I purchased an awl at the local tack shop for this purpose and practised on old pieces of tack until I had perfected the technique) you may be able to make simple repairs yourself. When in doubt, consult your local saddler for repair work.
3. Check the bit itself for rough edges that will damage your horse's delicate lips. Replace any bit that shows signs of roughness and wear immediately.
4. As you go over your bridle, check the buckles to make sure they are not rusting through and that the tongues are not bent, allowing the buckle to work undone in use.

Handling -
The halter (or headcollar) is a harness that fits on the horse's head around the muzzle and over the poll behind the ears. They can vary from quality and price. Generally used are the economy nylon halter and the classical leather halter. A lead line is attached to the halter under the chin to lead or tie a horse or pony. They come in different sizes and colours and are easily washed and durable. It's wise to have an extra halter kicking around the barn because you'll never know when it'll come in handy.

Rope halters are also available and are used for training. A thick nylon halter is easy to push and pull against but a rope halter teaches horses to yield from pressure. Horses should not be tied up or left unsupervised in a rope halter. They catch easily and can be dangerous if used improperly. A simple nylon or leather halter does better for simple handling, leading and tying.

Some people leave halters on their horses most of the time regardless whether they are outside or in a stall. This is a bad idea because halters catch and don't break. Many horses have injured or killed themselves wearing their halters. If the horse has catching issues a better solution is to leave the animal in a special break away halter until you can properly train the horse. As a rule, always remove the halter when turning a horse out or leaving it in a stall.

Putting a Halter on a Horse or Pony
For the purposes of this article I'm going to assume your horse is trained, in a stall or easy to catch. Please note that the handling of horses is classically done the animal's left side. While this is the proper way to handle horses in most stables, it's good to be capable of handling (haltering, leading, etc.) horses on both sides.

Have a halter clipped to a lead line in your hands (make sure the halter is the right size!). Acknowledge your horse and stand at his left side and loosely loop the lead line over his neck. (near side). This gives you a little control over the horse if he should try to pull away. Start by reassuring the horse with your right hand. Slide your right hand around to the animal's right side to guide the head. With the unbuckled halter in your left hand, position the halter near the horses head. Then with your right hand, slide the noseband over the muzzle and guide the headstall over the ears. Take care not to accidentally poke the horses eyes. Make sure the halter is placed correctly and securely. Use both hands to buckle the halter loosely under the throatlatch. Some halters have buckles, others have clips and rope halters are tied in a special knot. Grasp the lead line attached to the halter about a foot or two away from the horses chin with your right hand. Grasp the remaining lead line folded in your left hand. Never wrap or tie a lead line around your hand. Take care to stand to the side of the horse at all times. You are now ready to go.

Sizing Halters
Halters come in various sizes including full, pony, cob, arab, draft and warmblood. To measure a horse for a halter size, measure below the cheekbone around the nose. Then measure from where you would like the noseband to lie (under the cheekbone) up around the ears and down the other side. An easy way of doing this is to use string for the measurements. Then measure the string. It's not wise to measure a horse using a metal measuring tape.
Whenever you are grooming or saddling you will need to tie your horse. Horses and ponies can be tied with a lead rope, trailer ties or cross ties. No matter what is used, tying must be done in a manner that is most safe for handler and horse.

Tying lead ropes: There is some debate whether horses should or shouldn’t be tied ‘solid’. Tying solid means to tie so that it’s almost impossible for the horse to break free. For the horse’s or pony’s sake it is probably best if handlers don’t tie solid. If a horse is badly startled while tied it could panic, struggle and injure its neck and back. But sometimes we have to balance horse safety against people safety. There may be situations where it is safer to tie solid than have a horse break away and bolt into a crowd of people or busy highway. But when we are working with our horses in a paddock, or in the stable it’s safer for the horse to be tied so the rope or tie will break free if it panics.
Ideally the rope should be attached chest height or higher. The rope should be tied so it doesn’t dangle low enough to be stepped over but not be so high or tight that the horse’s head is restricted.
Never tie to a bridle, with the reins, or to the bit in anyway. If the horse struggles it could severely injure its mouth.
Always tie to a post, wall, or partition that is firmly anchored and will not come loose if the horse pulls on it. The object is to have the tie rope break rather than the structure you are tying to, or the horse’s neck. Don’t tie your horse or pony to anything that moves. If you are at a horse show or trail ride be cautious when tying to fences. Old posts can be weak at the bottom, and may be ripped up by your horse.
Cotton rope, 1 inch to 1 ½ inches in diameter is ideal for lead ropes. Flat lead shanks of leather or webbing aren’t ideal for tying with. Again, loops of baler twine, string, or garment elastic make safe breakaway ties around a fence post. Tie high enough that the horse can not step over the rope, but not so high or tight as to restrict the movement of the horse’s head. Check your ropes often for wear if you need to tie solid, such as out on trail, or at a horse show. Use a quick release knot (loop the rope around a post, or your waist if you are tying a rope belt. The rope can also be threaded through a ring or loop of twine. One end of the rope should be short and one end long. Cross the short end under the long end of the rope. Cross the short end back over the long end and pull a loop up through the circle that is made. Pull the rope tight. To release the knot, simply pull on the loose end, which will pull the loop back through the circle and untie the knot), so that if your horse is struggling you can easily pull on the end of the rope and free the horse.

Horse Husbandry Horse Husbandry is a rarely heard phrase these days. Horse care, horse health, horse nutrition, horse supplements, horse feed, horse blankets, horse tack (ad infinitum) are words or phrases you are more likely to come across as the market tries to sell you its individual products.
I think we need to revive the phrase "Horse Husbandry" to remind us that we have to look at everything as a whole, with regard to caring for our horse in the best manner possible. There´s no point in spending a fortune on a custom saddle, because the sales pitch was so convincing, and then leaving yourself without funds to buy a quality horse feed! If you can do both that’s fantastic. But in my experience the phrase "you can have horses, or you can have money - You can never have both" is more often the case. It certainly is for me and all my horse owning friends!
Having said that, there are also things which you should never skimp on. Sometimes cutting corners or buying cheap can cost you far more in the long term.
If you are going to keep your horse on your premises there are many things you need to consider.

FENCING: Is it strong, adequate? Is it safe for the horse? Old (or new) barbed wire or thin hot wire is not? Horses can be prone to chew wood (even if it's just a seasonal habit).

WATER: your horse needs a plentiful fresh and constant supply. A horse can drink around 40 liters (10 gallons) of water a day. So you need to think how you will provide that supply. Is there water on site or will you have to bring it in buckets? Which brings me to another very important consideration - how prepared are you to be there for your horse? I mean, you can´t go off for a weeks vacation if your horse relies on you for its feed and water. You can´t even go away for a weekend if you have no assistance to help look after your horse. You also need to think what will happen if you fall ill! Having a horse is a huge responsibility. A dog can so easily be put in kennels. A horse can´t!

SHELTER: Now you know I would prefer to see your horse living out, with a good, solid field shelter to fend off winter rain, summer sun and high winds, but if you want to stable your horse do your research. Make sure it is the right size for your horse, with a high airy ceiling, proper ventilation, electricity, running water. Consider the bedding options and the fact that you must muck out at least once a day. Where are you going to keep your muck heap? A horse produces 9 tonnes of manure a year! Depending on the set up and size, your paddock will need to be cleaned at least once a week as well.

HORSE FEED: Forage feed is the bulk of a horses diet. A horse needs to eat approximately 2 to 2.5% of it´s body weight each day and at least 85% of this should be in the form of grass, hay or haylage. You need to calculate your horses weight to calculate the amount of feed, which again will need to be adjusted depending on the amount of work and age of your horse, along with any special dietary needs. It doesn´t need to be as complicated as it sounds. A good feed supplier will help you with this information, along with your veterinarian (you have found yourself a good horse vet?) and your knowledgeable friends.

Don´t be taken in by fancy sweet smelling mixes of grain, or hard feed as it is also known. All feeds should now come labeled with not only the ingredients, but their nutritional value and a sell by date. Just a nutritional value label is not sufficient if the ingredients may contain something your horse can´t tolerate. You need to know it all.
Please remember that hard feed should be considered a supplement. Forage being the principal need of a horses diets and grain being only necessary to supplement any minerals or vitamins lacking in their hay and relevant to the work and age of a horse. Of course more important still is a constant supply of water.

Will you be keeping your horse at a yard? In full or part livery or turnout! There are a number of things you need to consider when doing this. Are the staff actual horse-friendly grooms, or just cheap ´mucker-outers´? This makes a huge difference as to how your horse is handled. Is the yard on its own property or rented? I´ve heard, once to often, of people turning up to see their horse only to find it abandoned as the staff have left, or people being given very short notice to find a new place for their mount due to the management having to give up their lease and worst of all is going and finding no horse at all, because the people at the yard have moved on and taken your horse with them! I don´t want to alarm you, just make you aware that question´s should be asked.
If they offer turnout for your livered horse ask to see where. Turn up unannounced (within reasonable business hours!) to see if the stalls are just as clean as when you arrived at a pre-arranged time. Ask exactly what is included in the price. Be prepared to tie your horses worming schedule in with theirs. A good yard will have a schedule and require this. This will also follow for annual vaccinations. Be clear on what food your horse will received and how often. Common sense for the most part, but we often forget at the hour of truth what we really want information about, so if you´re like me - make a list!

GROOMING: This should be done every day to keep the horse's coat in good condition. Grooming doesn't mean getting out all the brushes (except the feet need to be cleaned out at least once a day), it could mean no more than going out to your horse in the paddock and giving them a good scratch.

BEDDING: Straw Bedding, Saw Dust Bedding, Wood Shavings, Wood Pellets, Hemp Bedding, News Print Bedding, Peat Moss, Rubber Matting each has its own benefits and disadvantages.

Straw: Straw bedding especially wheat straw was used in virtually every stable some fifty years ago. Horses were mainly kept for hunting, competitions or belonged to riding schools. Some horses had "hay coughs",now called Chronic obstructive pulmonary disease and since the majority of horses were looked after by professional grooms, COPD meant nothing to the average horse owner.
Today's the situation is so different. The growing trend to keep equines as pets and not only as work animals has spurred a growing trend to find new types of bedding.

Benefits
• If clean and dust free, it makes an excellent bed.

Disadvantages
• amount of waste material generated
• costly to dispose
• Heavy to cart to the muck heap
• Dangers of spores and dust
• May create respiratory problems for horse and humans
• horses often eat the straw

Sawdust: Benefits
• Readily available almost everywhere. You can find this material at building sites, lumber stores, and many other places. Just make sure you ask permission before you start wandering around somebody's construction site or other place of business.
• Relatively inexpensive. As we said earlier you can even get this type of bedding for free.
• Cheap and easy to come by when the construction industry is thriving.

Disadvantages
• May irritate a horses lungs
• Can cause the "heaves" (a respiratory problem)
• Heavier to load and muck than straw, shavings or wood chips.
• Horses with respiratory problems should not use this type of bedding.
• I do not advocate this type of bedding as it can cause health risks for both you and your horse.

Hemp is a quality highly absorbent alternative to straw or wood shavings.
Hemp has been cultivated in North America since the 17th century. For a number of years it was against the law to grow hemp, it is once again legal to grow hemp commercially in Canada .
The outside of the hemp stalks are harvested for use in the textile, composite and paper industries. The core of the stalk is used for animal bedding, garden mulch and building materials.
Queen Elizabeth of England,uses the European company "Hempcore", producers of hemp bedding, as her equine product supplier.
HempChips, an Ontario based company, researched the wide spread use of hemp bedding in Europe and did stall trials and test marketing of the product in Ontario prior to launching HempChips at the Royal Winter Fair in 1998.

Benefits
• HempChips are dust extracted and cleaned of any impurities
• Ensure a clean stable environment
• Reduction in conditions that lead to respiratory problems in horses
• All natural – there few chemicals used to grow the hemp stalk and no chemicals used during processing.
• Highly absorbent – therefore you can use less
• Horses will not eat hemp stalks

Disadvantages
• High initial Cost of putting down the bedding
• Difficulty in locating local sellers.

Peat Moss has countless tiny air-filled cells that provide a comfortable cushion under the horses foot, making it a bedding recommended by veterinarians for convalescing horse's with foot problems. Peat moss has countless tiny air-filled cells that provide a comfortable cushion under the horses foot, making it a bedding recommended by veterinarians for convalescing horse's with severe foot problems.
It naturally neutralizes, not covers up, but organically neutralizes, ammonia fumes.Veterinarians have long recommended peat as a beneficial alternative stall bedding for horses suffering from COPD, commonly known as "heaves".
Peat moss has long been recognized as one of the most effective natural filtration materials found in nature. The natural beneficial microbes, and the material's outstanding absorbency trap and contain harmful urine and ammonia fumes.

Benefits>
• Counters the build up of stall ammonia.
• No further need of special stall deodorizers.
• Generates less waste volume than shavings or straw, or pellets
• Requires less storage space.
• Small amount of daily waste generated
• Rapid break down time compared to wood products or straw
• Keeps a white horse from getting urine stains

Disadvantages
• The brown earthy color makes the stalls look dark• More expensive initially than sawdust or shavings
A stall should be mucked out (given a proper skip, the bedding turned over and all dropping and wet bedding removed and replaced) at least once a day, and skipped (the droppings removed from the surface) as often as possible – especially if your horse is on stall rest.

Hooves and Shoeing The hooves of a horse or pony are cleaned by being picked out with a hoof pick to remove any stones, mud and dirt and to check that the shoes (if worn) are in good condition. Keeping feet clean and dry wherever possible helps prevent both lameness as well as hoof diseases such as thrush (a hoof fungus). The feet should be cleaned every time the horse is ridden, and if the horse is not ridden, it is still best practice to check and clean feet frequently. Daily cleaning is recommended in many management books, but in practical terms, a weekly hoof check of healthy horses at rest is often sufficient during good weather.
Use of hoof oils, dressings, or other topical treatments varies by region, climate, and the needs of the individual horse. Many horses have healthy feet their entire lives without need for any type of hoof dressing. While some horses may have circumstances where a topical hoof treatment is of benefit, improper use of dressings can also create hoof problems, or make a situation worse instead of better. Thus, there is no universal set of guidelines suitable for all horses in all parts of the world. Farriers and veterinarians in a horse owner's local area can provide advice on the use and misuse of topical hoof dressings, offering suggestions tailored for the needs of the individual horse.
Horses and ponies require routine hoof care by a professional farrier every 6 to 8 weeks, depending on the animal, the work it performs and, in some areas, weather conditions. Hooves usually grow faster in the spring and fall than in summer or winter. They also appear to grow faster in warm, moist weather than in cold or dry weather. In damp climates, the hooves tend to spread out more and wear down less than in dry climates, though more lush, growing forage may also be a factor. Thus, a horse kept in a climate such as that of Ireland may need to have its feet trimmed more frequently than a horse kept in a drier climate such as Arizona, in the southwestern United States.
All domesticated horses need regular hoof trims, regardless of use. Horses in the wild do not need hoof trims because they travel as much as 50 miles (80 km) a day in dry or semi-arid grassland in search of forage, a process that wears their feet naturally. Domestic horses in light use are not subjected to such severe living conditions and hence their feet grow faster than they can be worn down. Without regular trimming, their feet can get too long, eventually splitting, chipping and cracking, which can lead to lameness.
On the other hand, horses subjected to hard work may need horseshoes for additional protection. Some advocates of the barefoot horse movement maintain that proper management may reduce or eliminate the need for shoes, but certain activities, such as horse racing and police horse work, create unnatural levels of stress and will wear down hooves faster than they would in nature. Thus, some types of working horses almost always require some form of hoof protection.
The cost of farrier work varies widely, depending on the part of the world, the type of horse to be trimmed or shod, and any special issues with the horse's foot that may require more complex care. The cost of a trim is roughly half to one-third that of the cost of a set of shoes, and professional farriers are typically paid at a level commeasurate with other skilled labourers in an area, such as plumbers or electricians, though farriers charge by the horse rather than by the hour.
In the United Kingdom, It is illegal for anyone else other than a registered farrier to shoe or trim a horse's feet. The farrier should have any one of the following qualifications, the FWCF being the most highly skilled:
DipWCF (Diploma of the Worshipful Company of Farriers) ,AWCF (Associateship of the Worshipful Company of Farriers), FWCF (Fellowship of the Worshipful Company of Farriers)
In the USA, there are no legal restrictions on who may do farrier work. However, there are professional organizations, such as the American Farrier's Association (AFA), that maintain a voluntary certification program. Levels of certification in the AFA include: CF (Certified Farrier), CTF (Certified Tradesman Farrier), and CJF (Certified Journeyman Farrier). Once a farrier has completed the highest level of certification, he or she can also pursue Specialty Endorsements, such as the TE (Therapeutic Endorsement).
Natural Horse Care: is the practice of keeping horses so that their hooves are worn down naturally and so do not suffer overgrowth, splitting and other disorders. Horseshoes are not used but domesticated horses may still require trimming, exercise and other measures to maintain a natural shape and degree of wear.
Within the natural hoof care philosophy, the term Barefoot horses refers to horses which are kept barefoot full time, as opposed to horses who are fitted with horse shoes. The hooves of barefoot horses are trimmed with special consideration to a barefoot lifestyle. The barefoot horse movement advocates a generalized use of barefoot horses, both in non-competitive and competitive riding, often coupled with a more natural approach to horse care. Keeping horses barefoot is seen in many parts of the world, including South America, Mongolia and other industrialized and non-industrialized cultures.